Self-Rescue for
Climbers
Smith Rock State Park, OR
March 27-28, 2021
2 days
$425
Whether we like it or not, the unexpected sometimes happens.
This course will teach you everything you need to know to get you and your partner out of a bind when it does.
Over two days at beautiful Smith Rock you’ll learn the skills to deal with any situation like a pro. Whether you’re freshening up or starting at the beginning, we’ll cover everything from belay escapes, raises and lowers, mechanical-advantage haul systems and a variety of tools from rope ascension to improvised rescue. This is probably the most technical topic we as climbers deal with, and having two days gives us just enough time to learn and to practice.
Day 1 – Systems Workshop
We’ll start out near the ground working on the foundational knots and hitches we'll be using throughout the course, covering a variety of tools from prussiks and autoblocks to münter-mule-overhands. Once we have the fundamentals dialed, we'll move into common scenarios and their solutions, including how to escape belays from below and above, and how to raise and lower an injured climber safely using effective backups and mechanical advantage haul systems. While that may sound simple, it's anything but! The systems we use in these situations are some of the most complex in the climbing tool box, and will easily take the full day to learn.
Day 2 – Rescue In the Multipitch Environment
On our second day we’ll build on the skills we learned on Day 1 and tackle problems in the multi-pitch environment. We'll practice improvised rope ascension techniques, how to care for an injured climber, and strategies for anchors and rappel descents in rescue scenarios. Using safe backup systems, we'll practice live with you in the lead, giving you a chance to put it all together in a low-risk environment. By the time we're finished you'll have all the tools you'll need to solve any problem the mountains can throw at you.
Skills we’ll cover include:
Gear selection
Escaping a belay from above and below
Rope ascension systems
Mechanical advantage haul systems
Lowering a climber with a secure back-up
Passing a knot while lowering a climber (either on a damaged rope or two ropes tied together)
Tandem rappels
Münter and clove hitches
Friction hitches including prussiks, autoblocks and klemheists
Multi-person rappels
3:1, 5:1 and 6:1 haul systems
Rescue systems and patient care
Anchor transitions for rescues
This course is limited to four people in order to give you the care and attention you need.
And will be instructed by long-time Smith local and climbing obsessive Chris Wright. Chris has climbed all over the world, has been an AMGA Certified Rock Guide for more than ten years, and is an IFMGA Mountain Guide and instructor for the American Mountain Guides Association. All of that to say you’ll be receiving the highest quality instruction on the most up-to-date equipment and techniques. Come join me in our beautiful backyard and let’s go play!
